Garment Care
All the suggested products are genuinely recommended based on experience. None of the products mentioned are sponsored or affiliate links.
These recommendations are a collection of practical tips gathered over the years to help care for, maintain and extend the lifespan of your clothes.
General tips, washing and garment care
Washing and drying:
When you get a new piece, wash it by hand first to see if it bleeds. From experience, a lot of vintage natural fibers (like cotton or linen) in saturated colors, especially red, dark green or indigo can bleed and stain, so it's better to check beforehand or wash only will similar colors.
Too much detergent can leave residue and make the texture of your fabric feeling stiff and crunchy, so only use the recommended amount.
Wash in shorter cycles to help extend the life of your clothes, use lower temperatures for most items, except for everyday intimates or heavily worn/sweat-soaked pieces that may need a more thorough clean. Always keep care labels in mind, most clothing should only be washed at a maximum of 30 to 40°C, according to the label, to prevent shrinkage or added damage to the fibers over time.
To protect the color of black or darker pieces, wash them in cold temperatures, inside out and use a detergent specifically intended for dark clothing. This helps preserve the color vibrancy and prevents residue buildup, as these detergents typically lack harsh optical brightening agents that can cause fading and the breakdown of color pigments deposited in the fabric.
Wash denim jeans inside out, in cold water and sparingly. Between washes, spray them with a mix of equal parts white vinegar and water, then air them out, this helps neutralize odors and prevents them from losing their shape due to overwhashing.
Always choose to air dry your clothing instead of using a dryer whenever possible. This extends the lifespan of the fabric, helps avoid damage to prints and embroidered details and reduces shrinkage.
Aftercare and maintenance:
Get a fabric shaver to refresh knit pieces that are pilling. While it might not work perfectly in every case (depending on the fabric and the extent of the damage), it can significantly improve the look of knits, making them feel like new again. Just be careful not to get caught around loose threads, use it gently and move it carefully in different directions across the fabric.
For fluffier, finer knits like mohair and angora, or even fur/faux fur details, try gently brushing them out with a synthetic boar bristle brush after washing and drying to restore their texture. This makes a noticeable difference and helps prevent the fibers from feeling and looking crunchy and matted.
Get familiar with basic mending and hand stitching. Many pieces develop minor flaws with wear and these are often easy and affordable fixes to make yourself. Plus, even something as simples as changing the buttons on an old shirt (to make it look more modern, more wearable, cuter, create contrast or fit a different aesthetic entirely) can completely refresh the look of a piece you thought you were tired of wearing.
Treating and removing stains
Supergel Stain Remover will remove the most common types of stains. Apply a small dollop directly to the affected area. If the fabric is a jersey knit like polyester, cotton or linen you can use a toothbrush to work the product in. However, avoid this step on larger/fluffier knits to prevent pilling and instead rub it in gently with your hands. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then rinse and wash it as you would normally. Supergel has an intense scent, so to prevent it from lingering in your clothing, you can rub a drop of dish soap in with your fingers before rinsing to remove the product completely.
To refresh white fabrics or remove those stubborn orange spots that often appear on vintage clothing, use Sanytol Whitening Disinfectant Stain Remover (make sure it's the tub with the blue stripe on the bottom, as this is specific for whitening). Fill a small tub with warm water and half of a scoop of product and submerge your pieces. Leave them to soak for a few hours before washing them with the rest of your lighter pieces. If you're dealing with sweat stains or stained underarms, repeating this process a few times and consistently before washing can help significantly. This product does not contain bleach so it won't stain but be mindful that beige or off-white pieces may become noticeably whiter.
For small pen ink stains, use a paper towel lightly soaked in rubbing alcohol to blot the stain, then rinse thoroughly. Avoid rubbing, as this can push the pigment deeper into the fabric and make the stain worse.
To prevent difficult-to-remove stains such as red wine, coffee or blood, the fabric should be rinsed immediately and thoroughly with water to prevent the stain from drying in the clothing. That way, you should be able to remove it before setting into the fabric. Once set, these stains are very difficult to remove and may not come out completely using other methods.
Lingering or musty odors
Lingering odors can happen for a variety of reasons: not letting clothes dry completely before storing them, clothing sitting unused for too long in high humidity, built-up residue or sometimes a washing machine that simply needs some maintenance (cleaning out the door seal and filter a few times per year should do the trick).
For general everyday odors (like smoke or tobacco) spray a bit of Sanytol Textile Disinfectant Deodorizer and leave the piece hanging to dry before wearing it. This won't remove the smell completely, but it can help reduce it if you plan to rewear clothing before washing it.
For musty odors, fill a small tub with a mix of warm water and half a cup of white vinegar, submerge the clothing and let it sit for about an hour before washing it. You may need to repeat this process a few times if the smell is stubborn. Synthetic fibers tend to retain body odor more easily over time and throughout the day, so doing this consistently before washes can help keep odors to a minimum in those cases.
Restoring and maintaining leather goods
Leather and suede pieces should be professionally dry-cleaned, but they also require a few care steps between cleanings.
For suede jackets, skirts, pants and even shoes, it's important to apply a waterproofing treatment to protect against water/liquid damage, as well as buildup from skin oils in high contact areas (like collars, sleeves and pocket openings). This also helps prevent mold from forming if the piece is stored in more humid conditions. Remove surface dust with a synthetic boar bristle brush, brushing lightly in whatever direction the fabric looks more even and vibrant. Apply a protective spray evenly before wearing them for the first time, I recommend Búfalo Protect Super Impregnator (the english name for this is so goofy, I'm so sorry 😭) and allow it to air dry completely out of direct sunlight. Repeat this process every few months (or at least once a year if the piece isn't worn often).
If the color of a suede piece is looking a little dull, you can use Búfalo Classic Conditioner Nubuck following the same brushing, application and air-drying method. For black pieces with small spots that need a touch-up, apply a small amount of Búfalo Express Self-Shining Liquid using a q-tip or a fine brush, gradually building and blending the color as needed (don't use the sponge included in the product directly on the garment, as it can create uneven and unblended circular shapes). Although this product is typically intended for shoes, it can be useful for minor suede touch-ups and dries quickly, but I only recommend using black as other shades are limited and may not match your piece accurately.
Finished leather is generally a lot easier to maintain than suede. You can clean it by gently wiping the surface with a microfiber cloth dampened with a mix of lukewarm water and a drop of dish soap, then wiping again with a dry cloth. Apply a leather-specific conditioner (any brand usually works well) at least once a year to hydrate the material and prevent it from becoming stiff, dull and dried out, this step usually brings back some darker tones in the leather.
If the interior has a fabric lining such as polyester or cotton, you can lightly and evenly mist it using a spray bottle with a mix of equal parts water and rubbing alcohol to help remove odors and bacteria. Allow it to air dry completely and avoid spraying areas where leather trims, hems or plackets could be damaged and overly dried by the alcohol in the mixture.
Cleaning delicate fabrics and other items with a "Dry Clean Only" tag
Always check the care label instructions when handling delicate fabrics such as silk, wool, cashmere, angora or mohair.
Water can permanently alter the texture and sheen of silk. Silk pieces should never be machine washed. If dry cleaning isn't possible and washing at home is your only option, use cold water and a gentle detergent and wash by hand.
Wool, cashmere, angora and mohair should also ideally be dry cleaned, although some sweaters or skirts can sometimes be hand washed. When doing so, always use cold water and lay the piece flat to dry to prevent shrinkage and maintain its shape. Hanging any kind of knitwear (specially with the added weight when wet) can distort the fabric. Coats and jackets made from these fibers should always be dry cleaned since they have more complex stitching that could completely distort when you use water (using the Sanytol Textile Disinfectant Deodorizer spray that I mention in the "lingering or musty odors" section in between cleaning appointments).
If you have a wool piece that shrunk, soak it for a few minutes in a small tub of lukewarm water mixed with a couple of spoonfuls of hair conditioner, gently stretch it in all directions, and lay it flat to dry. This won't fully restore its original shape, but it can help with minor shrinkage.